After winning MasterChef Junior in May, 13-year-old Jasmine Stewart decided to rethink her Thanksgiving table. The Georgia native tested out recipes for pesto turkey, balsamic glazed Brussels sprouts, homemade cranberry sauce, and apple rose tarts. Her new dishes were a hit. “They’re all going to be on the menu from now on,” says Jasmine.
What people serve at Thanksgiving is as diverse as America itself. The dishes you eat on the holiday depend on where you live as well as your family’s heritage. If you live in the Southeast, for instance, you probably load your plate with pecan pie and corn bread dressing (aka stuffing). If you hail from the Midwest, you’re more likely to pile on green bean casserole and persimmon pudding. If you have German roots, you might serve sauerkraut and apple cake.
“There is no one definition of the Thanksgiving meal,” says Susan Evans, director of the Smithsonian Institution’s food history programs. “In some ways there never was.”
The first Thanksgiving, in 1621, was a weeklong festival to celebrate the fall harvest. English colonists and Wampanoag Native Americans came together to share food. But the food served wasn’t what you might expect.
“The only thing we know for certain was on the menu was deer meat,” says Sandy Oliver, a food historian based in Maine. This comes from a colonist’s letter that said the Wampanoag guests brought five deer to the feast. The partygoers likely also ate fish and wild fowl, like duck or goose, and autumn crops like cabbage, corn, and squash. “We know pumpkins did exist, but there was no flour, so they wouldn’t have had pie,” says Evans.
Today’s traditional Thanksgiving menu comes from 19th-century writer Sarah Josepha Hale. “She wanted to create an American tradition that brought people together,” says Evans. In her novel Northwood, Hale described a feast of “roasted turkey” with “savory stuffing,” and of course pumpkin pie. She wrote to President Abraham Lincoln, who made Thanksgiving an official holiday in 1863.
As the country changed, so did its national dinner. Families coming to the U.S. brought new recipes. Food companies have also brought their ideas to the table: Green bean casserole came from a Campbell’s soup can! “To me, Thanksgiving is about creativity,” says Evans. “Putting new twists on old experiences—that’s very American.”